Mapping the Unknown
When the reconnaissance team reached the vicinity of Everest,
its primary mission began. The expedition had received two key objectives from
its sponsors, the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club: to determine whether it is
possible to climb to the summit of Mount Everest; and to map the mountain and its immediate environs.
its primary mission began. The expedition had received two key objectives from
its sponsors, the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club: to determine whether it is
possible to climb to the summit of Mount Everest; and to map the mountain and its immediate environs.
Frank Nugent describes the mapping work carried out by the reconnaissance team.
Images in the film are provided by the Alpine Club Photo Library, London, and Marian Keaney/Westmeath Library Services.
Images in the film are provided by the Alpine Club Photo Library, London, and Marian Keaney/Westmeath Library Services.
'Major Morshead and Gujar Singh plane-tabling at 17,000 ft'. The personnel selected to form the Survey Detachment under Morsehead's command were: Brevet-Major E. O. Wheeler, Lalbir Singh Thapa, Gujjar Singh, Turubaz Khan and photographer Abdul Jalil Khan. (Alpine Club Photo Library, London)
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Putting the pieces together: June, July and August 1921
Mallory and Bullock began their explorations of Everest on 23 June 1921. They were accompanied by around twenty people, a mixture of Sherpas, porters and a cook. At the same time as the climbing team was making its explorations, Morshead and Wheeler conducted a vast survey of over 31,000 square kilometres (12,000 square miles) of previously unmapped territory. Wollaston collected and identified plants, birds and animals, and Heron investigated the region's geology. Howard-Bury coordinated all the expedition's activities, while also conducting his own explorations.
By early August, Howard-Bury had established a new base camp for the expedition at Kharta, since Mallory and Bullock conducted their explorations from that region. This remained the base headquarters of the expedition until it was time to return to India in October, and all the expeditions that were made up the Kharta Valley, or into the Kama Valley, were made from Kharta. The local Jongpens assisted the expedition by arranging for supplies to be sent up to the various camps when necessary. Howard-Bury later described this period of exploration in and around Kharta: 'We had not been able to gather much information locally about Mount Everest. A few of the shepherds said that they had heard that there was a great mountain in the next valley to the South, but they could not tell us whether the Kharta River came from this great mountain. The easiest way to get to this valley, they told us, was by crossing the Shao La, or the Langma La, both of which passes were to the South of the Kharta Valley, and, they said, led into this new valley. They called this valley the Kama Valley, and little did we realise at the time that in it we were going to find one of the most beautiful valleys in the world.' Mallory and Bullock had already left Kharta on 2 August to explore this route, which they thought would lead to the eastern face of Mount Everest. On 5 August, Howard-Bury, accompanied by Chheten Wangdi and a dozen porters, followed after Mallory and Bullock, in order to assess their progress and to further explore the area. |
A section from George Mallory's contribution to Mount Everest - the Reconnaissance.
Here, Mallory describes Everest and the Kama Valley. The reading is by actor John McGlynn.
Here, Mallory describes Everest and the Kama Valley. The reading is by actor John McGlynn.
Makalu, taken from over 6000 metres on a ridge south of Kama-chu (Marian Keaney/Westmeath Library Services: Howard-Bury Collection)
Wheeler's photo survey deployed the latest techniques to map the region. Morshead later said of Wheeler: 'Major Wheeler had probably the hardest time of any member of the Expedition, and his success in achieving single-handed the mapping of 600 square miles [1550 square kilometres] of some of the most mountainous country in the world is sufficient proof of his determination and grit. It is difficult for those who have not actually had the experience to conceive the degree of mental and physical discomfort which results to the surveyor from prolonged camping at high altitudes during the monsoon, waiting for the fine day which never comes. Such was our fate for four months during the Expedition of 1921, yet on looking back one feels that the results were well worth while.' (Alpine Club Photo Library, London)
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Meanwhile the idea was growing, the vision of Everest as a structural whole, and of the glaciers and lower summits to North and West. This idea resembled the beginning of an artist's painting, a mere rough design at the start, but growing by steps of clearer definition in one part and another towards the precise completion of a whole. For us the mountain parts defined themselves in the mind as the result of various expeditions. We set out to gain a point of view with particular questions to be answered; partial answers and a new point of view stimulated more curiosity, other questions, and again the necessity to reach a particular place whence we imagined they might best be answered. |
The mapping work, especially Wheeler's photo survey, was often hampered by clouds and poor weather.
In a dispatch from the expedition, Howard-Bury reported: 'Since July 7 the rainy season has been upon us. We have had frequent rain and hail showers with snow at the upper camps. Visibility is consequently poor and reconnaissance work hindered'
(Marian Keaney/Westmeath Library Services: Howard-Bury Collection)
In a dispatch from the expedition, Howard-Bury reported: 'Since July 7 the rainy season has been upon us. We have had frequent rain and hail showers with snow at the upper camps. Visibility is consequently poor and reconnaissance work hindered'
(Marian Keaney/Westmeath Library Services: Howard-Bury Collection)
One of the 1921 expedition's mountain camps (Marian Keaney/Westmeath Library Services: Howard-Bury Collection)
